Mold - What is it and How Does It Affect Us?

Anna screamed and dropped the box of canned goods.  The basement bedroom they were using as storage always smelled a little musty, but the bottom of the box and the carpet underneath it, were covered in black mold and the room now reeked, making it hard for her to breath.  

How could this happen?  What did it mean?  Would they all get sick?  Would they have to move to protect her family?

Anna's head was spinning as terrible words boiled up from her subconscious.  She slammed the door and rushed up the stairs to call her husband.

"Black Mold,"
                                            "Toxic Mold,"
                                                                          "Killer Mold"

Mold is actually one of the basic components of our ecosystem.  Its purpose is to eat and digest the organic waste in our world, primarily cellulose, break it down into basic components, so this material can be re-cycled by nature, as humus in the soil.  If we did not have mold, we would find ourselves hopelessly overcome with grasses, dead leaves, branches and trees that would never decompose or go away.

There are over 100,000 different species of mold in the world.  Hundreds of them have the capacity to grow in our homes when conditions are right.  Stachybotrys is the common "black mold" that received unusually harsh treatment in the media.  Because its waste is a toxin, like several other molds, it was labeled "toxic mold".  In an effort to demonize it in law suits, attorneys began to refer to Stachy as "killer mold".  But, mold doesn't kill people and it does not have the same toxicity or danger as chemical weapons.

Molds are living organisms which require 3 basic components to grow.

     1.  Available mold spores
     2.  Water
     3.  And a food source

Food sources for mold are virtually any organic substance, although the varieties that grow indoors on buildings, tend to prefer cellulose products; such as wood, paper, cardboard, etc. If you take any one of these 3 components away, mold can not grow.

Mold also prefers warmer temperatures with little or no light or air movement. Although it can grow in virtually any temperature, even in the Antarctic; we generally find it most abundant in temperatures from 60 to 100 degrees F.  It often grows un-noticed in a home because it tends to be found behind beds, dressers, under boxes on the floor, inside walls, inside cabinets, etc.

Different areas of the country have a greater or lesser propensity for mold growth.  The east coast and deep south that normally have high humidity levels, can have prolific mold growth.  Ample moisture in the air easily condenses on building surfaces providing the needed source of water.  These areas also have more rampant growth in the wild that can easily be transferred into the buildings on air currents, increasing the availability of spores to germinate.  Mold grows exponentially, so the more spores you start with, the faster it multiplies.

Even the dry deserts and high mountain valleys of the western US, have everything needed for mold growth, except an abundance of water.  But if there is a small water leak in a building, mold will readily begin to grow.

There is a common misconception that if you kill the mold, it will no longer be a problem, as with bacteria.  This is not a reality.  Bacteria and viruses have soft cell walls that break apart and decompose very rapidly after they die.

Mold, on the other hand, has a hard cell wall, much like a nut, that does not break down nor decompose without water.  Also, when mold dies, it sporulates, that is, it spews out hundreds of thousand of spores (eggs) that await the opportunity to hatch and grow.  Introducing water will decompose the mold carcasses, but will also germinate the waiting spores, (eggs) and the mold colony will continue to grow and thrive.  Since dead mold provides the same level of irritation that live mold does, it must be removed from the environment to have the remediation successful.

We are all exposed to mold on a regular basis.  It could be an apple or an orange that has been in the fridge for 3 months.  You smell it in flower beds and compost piles.  Maybe there is a small amount of mold growing on your window sills or under the bathroom vanity.  Generally, exposure to mold, has little or no affect on healthy people.  It is only when it becomes concentrated in an enclosed space, as in a bathroom or bedroom, and levels are elevated, that it becomes a concern.

Exposure to mold is usually through inhalation.  When we breathe in the spores,  they irritate linings of our nose, throat and sinuses.  We experience much the same reaction as people with hay fever.  In an effort to extract the spores, our bodies produce symptoms such as; watering eyes, stuffy sinuses, runny noses, sore throats, dry hacking coughs or a general, all over feeling, that we might be getting sick.  The good news is; once we are removed from the source of irritation, the symptoms disappear within a few hours, or at most, a day or two.

Exposure to mold is determined by both quantity and duration.  A person who is exposed to a small amount regularly over a long period of time, may have more detrimental affects than someone exposed to a large amount for a short period.  The irritation that is inflicted on our bodies, generally results in fatigue and/or exhaustion of our immune systems; allowing us to become susceptible to other viruses and bacteria in our environment.

There are 4 groups of people that tend to have greater sensitivity to mold exposure.

1. Those who have upper-respiratory conditions, such as; asthma, hay-fever, chronic pneumonia or bronchitis.  This is because their respiratory system is already weakened from their conditions.
2. Those who have compromised immune systems, such as; chronic fatigue, fibro-myalgia, lupus, Epstein bar, etc.  The irritation from the mold continues to weaken their immune system along with their resistance to disease and illness.
3. The very young, as under age 3-4.  These children have less body mass and they breath air close to the floor where mold spores tend to congregate, giving them higher doses of exposure.
4. The elderly already have tired immune systems because of their age.

Discussions of the effect of mold on people have to take into account so many factors, that a simple blanket statement of how much exposure is safe is impossible.  This article sheds some light on what variables need to be considered in determining the negative effects of mold exposure.

Mold - Where and How Does It Grow?

Aaron signed as he sat his soda can on the table.  True to form, he couldn't finish a drink before it hit his bladder.  Excusing himself from the room, he quietly went to the bathroom.  The door was locked.  "Must be one of their kids," he thought.  Maybe John and Sarah wouldn't mind if he used their master bath, since he had about 30 seconds before the filtered soda would leave his bladder, whether he was in an appropriate spot or not.

As he closed the door and lifted the lid, Aaron noticed the dark staining on the wall and on the baseboard behind the toilet.  "What in the world?" he muttered, and then he recognized that it was mold.  Growing along the wall, it was all the way from the vanity to the tub.  It gave him the chills to know that his best friend lived in such filth.  He quickly finished and gratefully closed the door behind him as he eagerly returned to the party, thinking of any excuse to leave as soon as possible.


Mold requires 3 ingredients to grow; mold spores, moisture and a food source.  Once all three components are in place, mold can begin to grow most any place.  All homes and businesses, regardless of how clean, have mold spores and food sources readily available.  All that is missing is the moisture for growth to start.

While mold can grow in nearly any location in your home, there are a few places where it is much more likely to start.  Regular inspection of these places will help to prevent or reduce mold growth.  Regular means daily if you are paranoid, or once a week to once a month if you are conscientious.

1. Under sink cabinets - Sink cabinets always have water lines.  It is possible for a small or large leak to begin most anytime in either the supply or drain lines.  The older the plumbing, the greater the chance of a leak forming.  They can occur from old gaskets, rusty pipes, or worn-out fixtures, etc.  Once a pin-hole leak starts, the water will erode the hole larger and larger until a drip every day becomes a steady stream.  Because we seldom inspect under the sink, mold can grow undetected for quite some time.
2. Behind and under your fridge - Water and ice lines to the fridge are fragile.  They are usually 1/4" lines of either plastic or copper tubing.  As the fridge is moved in and out for cleaning and inspection, it is easy for the tubing to be crimped or run-over by the wheels, causing a small hole to develop.  Movement and vibration also loosen the fittings, allowing water to leak out.  A slow, steady drip can become an adequate source of moisture for mold growth and remain unnoticed for weeks.
3. Around tubs or showers - In these locations, there is soap scum and bodily oils that collect in corners.  These are food for mold to grow.  If the shower is wiped down or cleaned regularly and the room is properly exhausted, you can minimize mold growth.  Also, over time, the joints and corners of tile and cultured marble surrounds, develop cracks.  These will allow water to seep into the framing under the shower and start mold growth under and between floors, as well as onto ceilings below.
4. Exterior windows and doors - Windows, especially in the colder climates, are frequent haunts for mold.  Dust and water condensing on the glass collect on the sills and provide a perfect environment. This is particularly true when heavy drapes and curtains are over the windows and seldom if ever opened allowing the moisture to build up and condense.
5. Around any other water fixture, i.e.; toilets, water heaters, boilers, swamp coolers, etc. - The older the home, the more likely a leak can begin.  Water heaters have warranties that range from 5-12 years.  They are usually pretty good at not lasting much longer than the warranty.

Here are a few of the less likely places I have seen mold grow.

1. Attics - If you have a leak in the roof, the water will provide the environment for mold to grow.
2. Crawl spaces - Some locations have extremely high ground water.  This water can condense on the framing members and start mold growth.  Venting crawl spaces as per code, as well as installing moisture barriers on the dirt, will greatly reduce the chance of this happening.
3. Between the layers of vinyl flooring - Often the wax ring that seals the toilet to the drain will develop a hole allowing water to seep out along the sub-floor, under the vinyl.  When this water penetrates the layers of paper in the vinyl, mold can grow.  This generally creates a grey to purple stain in the flooring.  It looks much like someone spilled grape juice and it stained.  No matter how hard you scrub or what cleaner you use, the stains will not come off.  The only solution is the vinyl has to be replaced.
4. Sub-flooring under wood or laminate flooring - In the event of a water leak or flood in a room with laminate flooring, the foam or plastic barrier under the laminate will trap moisture next to the sub-flooring material, allowing mold to grow.  Often it takes months to years for this water to dissipate.
5. Exterior walls behind furniture - Mold in these areas usually grow from one of two sources.  First, water intrusions from the outside such as sprinklers or rain water.  Second, high humidity in a room that condenses on the cooler locations behind the furniture near the floor.  Either of these reasons need to be corrected before effective remediation can occur.

Regardless of where or how mold begins to grow, the guiding principles of remediation are:

• Correct the source of water.  If the source is not stopped, mold will begin to grow again within a few weeks of the repairs.
• Remove and dispose of all damaged material.
• Wipe and HEPA vacuum the area until clean.

Mold - How Do You Clean It Up and Keep It From Coming Back?

Alex was in shock.  In his hand he held an estimate from the restoration company to remove the mold growing in the basement bedroom.  He had hoped it would only be a few hundred dollars, not thousands; and they didn't give any guarantee that it wouldn't cost more, once they tore his house apart.  How could this cost so much?  There was quite a bit of mold in the bedroom and bathroom, but not this much.


They also said his insurance might not cover the clean-up or the repairs.  What good was home owner's insurance then? How would he explain this to his wife?  Oh, and she would probably want him to do this himself, too.  Fear gripped Alex as he saw their planned vacation to Disney World, dissolve into a heap of black, smelly mold.

To comprehend the cost of mold remediation, we must first understand the protocol or the method needed to remove and clean it up.  We discussed in another post, a common misconception, that if you apply an antimicrobial, you kill the mold and it will no longer be a problem, such as with bacteria or viruses.  This is not a reality.  Bacteria and viruses have soft cell walls that break apart and decompose very rapidly after they are killed.

Aspergillius Mold Spores

Mold, on the other hand, has a hard cell wall, much like a nut, that does not break down nor decompose without water.  Also, when mold dies, it sporulates, that is, it spews out hundreds of thousand of spores (eggs) that await the opportunity to hatch and grow.  Introducing water will decompose the dead mold carcasses, but will also germinate the waiting spores (eggs) and the mold colony will continue to grow and thrive.  Because mold does not dissolve upon death, they provide the same level of irritation that live mold does and must be removed from the environment to have the remediation successful.  Therefore, the proper protocol for mold remediation is "mold removal".

The schedule of tasks to remove the mold consists of the following order of events:

1. Identify and repair the source of water
2. Contain the affected area with plastic barriers
3. Technicians must wear full protective gear including respirators or masks
4. Install negative air pressure; filtering and exhausting the contaminated air to the outside
5. Remove all contaminated materials; drywall, carpet, framing, etc.
6. Double-bag and dispose of contaminated materials
7. Sand or scrape mold from any remaining structural framing that can not be removed
8. Hepa vacuum all the surfaces inside the containment area, including all plastic barriers and equipment
9. Wash/wipe down all surfaces with a fungicide
10. Hepa vacuum all surfaces inside the containment area, again.
11. If damaged area is still wet, install appropriate fans and/or de-humidification
12. Once the area is dry, hepa vacuum the entire inside of the containment again
13. Industrial Hygienist tests the air quality to determine if the remediation was successful
14. If testing fails, re-clean entire containment area and re-test as needed
15. Remove all barriers, double-bag and dispose.

These are just the basic steps than need to be taken to properly remediate mold.  Often there is more vacuuming or cleaning.  Sometimes testing is not performed, under the assumption that the remediation will be effective.

Addressing the price of such work, contractors also need to provide proper training for their technicians, as well as purchase and maintain fans, de-humidifiers and negative-air machines that cost hundreds to thousands of dollars each.  Most states also require pollution insurance, in addition to regular liability insurance, which costs additional thousands to tens of thousands of dollars a year, depending on the volume of work they do. On top of all this, the contractor still needs to realize a profit to remain in business year after year.

While there are unscrupulous contractors that use mold remediation as a vehicle to separate a customer from their money, most contractors are merely passing on the actual costs of doing business with a sufficient profit margin to allow them to remain in business.

There are many times, with smaller jobs especially, that a home owner has the skills and experience to do the work themselves, with proper instructions, but they still need to follow the protocol outlined above to protect themselves and their families.  A "smaller job" is generally accepted as one containing less that 10 sq ft of moldy surfaces.  If there is more than 10 sq ft, an experienced, professional mold remediation company should be hired to do the work.

As for questions regarding insurance coverage, check out Mold Coverage and Insurance Policies

Mold Myths

Paul hung his head in despair.  They almost had the sale of their home finalized, but now the home inspector's report said that he had found mold around the water heater in the basement.  He was sure the sale would fall through now and they would never be able to sell or rent the house, ever!

This would be disastrous.  They had to move to another state for his new job and they couldn't survive with this albatross around their necks.  What could they do?  Was there any hope?

There are many myths regarding mold that need to be dispelled.  Once mold has started in a home, it is very possible, in all but the most extreme cases, for the mold to be properly remediated, repairs made and for the home to be as good or better than it was before.  The presence of mold will have to be declared in future sales of the property, but proper documentation of the cleaning process will satisfy most buyers.

Below is a list of other myths regarding mold where I have explained the truth.

Myth - Once I have mold in my house, it will continue to infect the entire building.
Mold requires available mold spores, moisture and a food source.  If you have mold start to grow in your home, the source of water is fixed and professional repairs are made to remove the damaged materials, mold will not continue to grow.  Mold is not like a hive of bees that can migrate to other locations at will.  It is a very small organism that can only move on air currents and requires a specific environment to grow.

Myth - Mold will kill my family.
Mold does not kill people or other living entities.  Because it is an irritant, repeated exposure can weaken our immune systems making us more susceptible to other bacteria or virus that may be floating around.  Once we are removed from the contaminated environment, any negative symptoms disappear in a few hours or at most, a few days.

Myth - People catch mold.
People do not catch mold.  Inhalation causes irritation that motivates the body to expel the invaders, creating symptoms such as; watering eyes, stuffy sinuses, runny noses, sore throats, dry hacking coughs or a general, all over feeling, that we might be getting sick.

This is the same reaction produced by those with Hay Fever or Allergies.  The symptoms are merely the body's attempt to remove the invaders.

There is one extreme case where mold spores will grow in your body.  This is with Aspergillius mold spores.  They can grow in our lungs if we are exposed to a large enough quantity and our immune system is sufficiently weaken.  It creates a condition known as Aspergillosis in which the patient is very sick and usually requires large doses of intravenous anti-biotics for weeks to recover.

While this situation is possible to develop, most people are physically unable to remain in a contaminated environment long enough to inhale sufficient quantities of Aspergillus for this condition to start.

Myth - Mold will make you sick. 
People with repeated exposure to mold can become sick, but it is not the mold that makes them sick.  It is the weakening or exhausting of their immune system that leaves them susceptible to other illnesses that are available.

Myth - Mold is Toxic
As explained above, mold is an irritant.  Some species of mold excrete waste known as mico-toxins.  These are also irritating to our bodies, but they are not toxic in the conventional sense of anthrax or carbon-monoxide.  Like mold spores, they do nothing more than stimulate the symptoms in our bodies so they can be expelled.  These symptoms can include; watering eyes, stuffy sinuses, runny noses, sore throats, dry hacking coughs or a general, all over feeling, that we might be getting sick.

Again, once we are removed from the source of irritation, the symptoms usually disappear in a few hours.

What Will My Insurance Company Cover In a Fire?

--Each insurance policy is different.--
You will need to speak with your insurance adjuster to determine 
exactly what your insurance company covers in a fire.

The huge firetruck screeched to a halt. The Fire Chief barked orders and the crew flawlessly connected hoses to the hydrant, snaked them across the yard and water began to pour onto the burning house. Paul marveled at the sight, until the realization that this was his house snapped him back into reality. In less than half an hour it was over. Eighteen years of sweat equity, repairs and pride was reduced to a smoldering, sagging shell. He had insurance, but Paul had no idea who it was with, what was covered or where to start.


The first thing to do to determine what is covered in a fire loss is to speak with your agent.  Your agent will be able to tell you who the insurance company is and how to contact them.  Often, your agent can file your claim for you, sometimes they can't and you will have to do it yourself.


After the fire is over, you may not be able to find your policy or remember who the company was, but you should have your agent's name and phone number recorded in phone, Rolodex or some other place you store your contact's names and phone numbers.  It is always a good practice to have these special numbers in different locations, such as; work, with a friend or another family member's home.  

Fire insurance was actually the first type of insurance available to home owners. You will find that most insurance companies cover all the damages that result from a fire. This includes demolition, cleaning, repairing and rebuilding the structure as well as, replacing damaged furnishings and contents.



Demolition - This is the process of removing the debris from your home.  It can include; framing, drywall, insulation, carpeting as well as damaged furniture and clothing.  Those items that are nailed down are generally referred to as "property" and what is not nailed down, are "contents" or "personal property".  Labor, materials and dumpsters to haul off this debris is usually covered.


Cleaning - Most fires do not completely destroy a home.  Part, if not all of the structure, can be cleaned and repaired.  Cleaning consists of more than just wiping the black off with a wet cloth.  Special grease cutting agents are used and proper protocol, including the direction and way to wipe, are needed to do the job right. 


Cleaning is usually cheaper than replacement, so insurance companies are generally eager to try cleaning first, if it is a viable option, then look at replacement.


Sealing - After the structure is cleaned, there may still be staining and/or odor.  The staining can result from either chemical changes to the exterior finish from the heat or the soot particles can enter the pores of the surface when they open from the intense heat.  Regardless of the reason, the remaining staining or odor will not come out.  Special sealers are applied to these surfaces to trap or encapsulate the staining and odors.  



Repairing/Rebuilding - Once the debris is removed and the remaining structure cleaned and sealed, the repairs can begin.  Your insurance will usually pay to put the structure back exactly as it was before the fire occurred.  This includes the same design and materials that were originally used.  It is possible to change colors, materials or finishes as long as the total cost of repairs is equal to, or less than, what was there before the fire.


That said, an owner has the right to rebuild their home how ever they choose, including a complete remodel or extensive additions.  If this is the case, your insurance company is usually only obligated to pay the cost to put your home back to its pre-loss condition.  Any costs that exceed this would be borne by the owner.

Furnishing and Contents - While most homeowners will look at furniture and clothing as different items, the insurance company considers them all "contents".  Most companies have a "new for old" replacement clause for homeowner policies.  This means that any piece of content that was damaged, as long as it is still serviceable, will be replaced at the current replacement cost with a new item.


Some policies for businesses, rentals, condos, or assigned risks, do not have "new for old" replacement clauses.  It is wise to examine your policy before a loss to determine what your potential risks actually are in this situation.  Many times it is much greater than the policy holder assumed.


You will be required to generate a complete list of all the damaged items, with the replacement cost, and submit it to the adjuster for review and payment.  In the event of a large loss or other extenuating circumstances, the insurance company may pay for the services of a qualified restoration company to help generate this list.


Some policies also have a code upgrade rider available, to pay for additional costs needed to bring the structure up to current building code requirements.


Payment - You will generally be paid in steps during the repair process, upon verification of the loss and costs.  Checks are often issued to you for:

• Emergency Needs - Emergency purchases of new clothing, food or lodging.
• Additional Living Expenses - Payment for all additional expenses incurred as a result of the fire, i.e., lodging, food, etc.
• Contents - Payment for replacement of these damaged items.  
• Construction Draws - For small jobs, this can be the entire amount of repairs, for large jobs, it can be various percentages of the total cost that are paid as benchmarks are reached.
• Final Payment - At the end of the job, items that were not anticipated in the beginning or already paid, are examined and reviewed so that final payment can be given to you. 

Again, every insurance company and policy are different.  

You will need to discuss with your agent or adjuster
to determine exactly what is covered by a fire and
how much money is allowed for the various categories.