How Restoration Companies Document Jobs Without Really Trying

"David, Please look this case over and tell me what you think." The attorney handed me a folder, 1.5 inches thick, filled with Complaints, Disclosures, Responses to Interrogatories, Responses to Responses to Interrogatories, etc. 

I quickly scanned through the pages. It was a simple water loss that had gone south and the owner was suing because they thought the restoration company was responsible for the mold that was now in their house.

I found the estimate from the restoration company. It listed 48 fans days and 8 dehumidifier days. Did that mean there were 2 dehumidifiers for 4 days with 12 fans or since the owners claimed the fans seemed to run forever, was there only 1 dehumidifier for 8 days with 6 fans? Or did they start with 15 fans and remove some as areas dried? 

There was no mention on the cover page of when they were called out, what the source of the water was, or any other information relating to the loss. There were no drying logs or follow-up notes of any moisture testing.

The owner's claimed in the Complaint that they had the home tested for mold and there was a lot of mold, but they couldn't remember the name of the company and there was no mold report. The insurance company, owner, and restoration company all had different dates for the loss, which incidentally occurred over 3 years earlier. 

What a mess. I not sure I could  figure out what really happened, even with a divining rod!

Documentation typically is a nightmare for everyone. There are so many phone calls, abbreviated emails, texts, and face to face conversations and agreements that weeks or months later, the ice cream hits the fan as everyone tries to place blame for the problems. It really isn't that hard to leave a paper trail that will help unwind the tangled webs we do so often weave.

Following is a list of items or practices that Restoration Companies can use to help document jobs more thoroughly. These ideas work as well as you work them.

Contract & Authorization to Work -This is one of the most important documents you can produce. Without a signed contract guaranteeing payment and authorizing you to work on the property, you are left to the good graces of the owner or a judge to receive payment. In order to be valid and enforceable, contracts must contain certain elements.

1. The names of all parties involved.
2. The date the contract was signed by each party.
3. A description of the work to be performed or services to be rendered.
4. The total cost of the work or services to be performed.
5. If the total cost can not be determined upfront, a schedule of hourly rates or unit costs for equipment, personnel and services is a must.
6. The dates by which the work or services are to begin and end.
7. The dates or conditions when payments are due.
8. Means to be employed if conditions are not met, i.e.; work stoppage, interest charges, withholding payment, legal action, etc.

Information sheets - Every company should have an information sheet, along with their owner contract, that is filled out the day of the first contact. This form will be referred to constantly as the job progresses. We always insisted that our techs could not start the job until all the forms were filled out completely. The information sheet should include:

1. Owner or representative's name.
2. Address of the loss.
3. Additional addresses of the owner or representative.
4. Phone Numbers, the home number as well as all cell phones.
5. Insurance carrier or liable party.
6. Technicians, estimators or coordinators working the job with contact numbers.
7. Source or cause of the loss.
8. Other notes, including; items discussed or promised

Work Orders - If there is a written work order form that is given to the techs before they go to the job, several good things happen.

1.  The techs have all the contact information, including the address of the property, phone numbers, time of appointment, etc.
2.  The techs know what work is required, where to do it and what equipment or supplies are needed so they come prepared.
3.  Any additional work that needs to be done can be added to the work order.
4.  The owner can sign the work order upon completion, accepting the work.

Satisfaction Completion Forms -This is a simple form that the owners sign after the final walk-through accepting the work and guaranteeing payment. If you have a pile of completed work orders and a final Satisfaction Completion Form, each signed by the owner, you are well on your way to receiving payment for the work as well as protecting yourself against any disagreements.

The owner should receive a copy of all of these documents for their own file as well.


Call the Office - Most estimators and coordinators are so busy running here and there, answering phone calls, and putting out fires that there doesn't seem to be any time to write down work orders or any other documentation.

We actually wrote software that stored all our projects online. We could access it through our smart phones or computers from anywhere and enter notes directly to the project. These were available for everyone associated with the project to see. (There are other products on the market now that do much of what our software did.) It worked very well, but even then, I found it difficult to enter all the notes needed.

The solution was to "Call Tanya". As I drove to the next job, I would call the office and dictate to Tanya the notes we needed to record. She was always in the office and next to the computer.

The jobs with the least amount of documentation usually end up with the greatest propensity for legal liability. 

Sticky Notes - For a long time I carried a small spiral notebook in my pocket to record thoughts, ideas, assignments, etc. But then I found I would have so many new notes in one day, that the things I was supposed to do were hidden 5-6 pages back in the notebook. I also found that notes for different jobs were only in my notebook, notes for several jobs were all on one page or they were never in the job folder where I needed them months later. Then I discovered sticky notes.

The 2"x2" size became the hard copy of my brain. I would keep several pads in my car, on my desk and in my notebook. One thought or phone number per page. Then they were posted in the location best suited to be completed or saved; the dash of my Jeep, on the wall by my desk or at home by the phone. They all went into the appropriate job folder and months later I still had the phone number, address, or summation of a phone call.

In spite of technology and the Internet offering us text messaging, emails and other forms of communication, I still find sticky notes often the fastest way to initially preserve a thought, which I can then transfer easily to another medium when I have time.

Notes in the Cloud - There are many note-taking apps that are available for all the different I-Phones, Android Phones, Blackberries, I-Pads, tablets, etc. Most of these include the feature of storing the information on the Internet Cloud and then automatically syncing with multiple devices.

Many apps also enable you to verbally dictate notes that are then converted into text on the spot. This allows you to take quick notes on site or in a meeting and then when you return to your computer, you can flesh out the document, save it and then share it through texting, email, fax or other media.

I often take the notes of the meeting on my phone and send them to the other party at the conclusion of the meeting so we both have exactly the same notes and written agreements. They can be organized and printed out later to preserve a hard copy.

Photos and Videos - I used to always carry a camera with me and took boatloads for photos of each job. Now nearly everyone has a phone with good to excellent cameras. Taking photos is no longer hard and often they can be shared, even while you are on the phone, enhancing the communication experience.

It is a skill to learn what to photograph. I used to go back through the shots I had taken and the item I was looking for was always just outside the frame. Lots of practice will teach you what will likely be needed later. The more photos you take, the greater chance you have of documenting what you need.

The best way to photograph is the way movies are filmed. 

     First take a wide shot of each wall,
     Then take closer details of each shelf, 
     Then close-up shots of items of greater value or interest,
     Possibly both front and back.

Videos are also great for documenting larger areas, such as the exterior of a building, large rooms or piles of content. It is important to pan slowly and remain for at least 5 seconds on each area or item or you will become motion sick playing it back or have to continually pause the video.

Whatever method or methods you use to document your files, the better you do it, the less your chances are of ending up in court. Most of these ideas are simple and easy once you decide to develop the habit.  

Remember, the jobs with the least amount of documentation usually end up with the greatest propensity for legal liability.

How Owners Can Document Losses Without Really Trying

The older couple looked more worried now than they did when the tornado ripped the roof off their home. I had just presented them with the invoice for repairing and replacing their roof, it was nearly $12,000.00. I laughed and said, "You only have to pay your $250 deductible, the insurance has already paid the rest."

The husband stammered, "We haven't seen any checks from the insurance company."

"Are you sure? The adjuster told me he sent the checks."

"No, we haven't received any checks."

I grabbed my phone and called the adjuster. "Are you sure you sent the checks?"

"Yes," he stated. "They went out over 3 weeks ago. They should have them."

I suggessted to the owners that we look through all the correspondence they had from the insurance. They found opened letters on the counter, some envelopes on the top of the fridge and some other papers on the desk. Half of the envelopes had not been opened. We started with the unopened envelopes. In the second and third ones, we found a check in each. 

I asked why they hadn't opened these checks? The owner said he had stopped reading them because they didn't make any sense and he was tired of being confused. 

While insurance losses can be confusing, Owners have a responsibility to maintain proper records for losses. It not only helps you understand what is going on, but can make a world of difference later if you end up with legal issues. You should ask for copies of all documents you sign from both the insurance company and any contractors. Having in your file what they have in their file, prevents documents from changing.

Keep All Documents in One Place - During an insurance loss, owners are inundated with paperwork. In fact, the adage is really true, "He who has the most paper work usually wins." There will be contracts from everyone, estimates from everyone, satisfactory completion documents, change orders, insurance policies, letters from the adjuster, invoices, etc., and that is if the job goes well.

Create a file, a large envelope or a box that "everything" related to the job goes in. Keep it in the same place. This way the papers will go in and they will still be there when you need them.If there are legal proceedings, the mountain of paperwork will continue to rise. If you don't have a way to organize and retain it all in one place, you will lose critical documents and may lose your case.

I knew one family involved in a lawsuit against a large construction company, who received 20,000 pages of documentation from the opposing attorney. All of it needed to be read to determine if it was accurate.

Prepare for the worst,
Expect the best, and
Take whatever comes.

If you just follow the first phrase and only prepare for the worst, bad things will happen to you all the time. The Law of Attraction is real and we usually receive exactly what we expect.

I had a judge/attorney with a water loss who spent the first 45 minutes I was there telling me about all the lawsuits he had over his home. I innocently asked him, "Should I expect to be sued as well?" He was flustered, but assured me that it wouldn't happen. He was a challenging customer, but since I thoroughly documented everything that happened, we stayed out of Court.


Sticky Notes - For a long time I carried a small spiral notebook in my pocket to record thoughts, ideas, assignments, etc. But then I found I would have so many new notes in one day, that the things I was supposed to do were hidden 5-6 pages back in the notebook. I also found that notes for different jobs were only in my notebook, notes for several jobs were all on one page or they were never in the job folder where I needed them months later. Then I discovered sticky notes.

The 2"x2" size became the hard copy of my brain. I would keep several pads in my car, on my desk and in my notebook. One thought or phone number per page. Then they were posted in the location best suited to be completed or saved; the dash of my Jeep, on the wall by my desk or at home by the phone. They all went into the appropriate job folder and months later I still had the phone number, address, or summation of a phone call.

In spite of technology and the Internet offering us text messaging, emails and other forms of communication, I still find sticky notes often the fastest way to initially preserve a thought, which I can then transfer easily to another medium when I have time.

Notes in the Cloud - There are many note-taking apps that are available for all the different I-Phones, Android Phones, Blackberries, I-Pads, tablets, etc. Most of these include the feature of storing the information on the Internet Cloud and then automatically syncing with multiple devices.

Many apps also enable you to verbally dictate notes that are then converted into text on the spot. This allows you to take quick notes on site or in a meeting and then when you return to your computer, you can flesh out the document, save it and then share it through texting, email, fax or other media.

I often take the notes of the meeting on my phone and send them to the other party at the conclusion so we both have exactly the same notes and written agreements. They can be organized and printed out later to preserve a hard copy.

Photos and Videos - There is no easier way for owners to document their contents, as well as the progress of a job, than with photos. In less than 2 minutes, you can take several pictures of a room and have concrete documentation of your possessions. In less than an hour, you can have a record of everything you own.

Taking photos is no longer hard nor expensive and often they can be shared, even while you are talking on the phone, enhancing the communication experience.

It is a skill to learn what to photograph. I used to go back through the shots I had taken and the item I was looking for was always just outside the frame. Lots of practice will teach you what will likely be needed later. The more photos you take, the greater chance you have of documenting what you need.

The best way to photograph is the way movies are filmed. 

     First take a wide shot of each wall,
     Then take closer details of each shelf, 
     Then close-up shots of items of greater value or interest,
     Possibly both front and back.

Videos are also great for documenting larger areas, such as the exterior of a building, large rooms or piles of content. It is important to pan slowly and remain for at least 5 seconds on each area or item or you will become motion sick playing it back or have to continually pause the video.

It is important to store an additional copy of your documentation at another location or on the Cloud. I had one client with several collections of rare and expensive items. Fortunately she saw a show on TV encouraging everyone to photograph their items. She grabbed her son's digital camera, went around the house and took about 600 pictures. Two weeks later, they had a fire that destroyed 90% of their home and all of her collections. We found the camera on the floor in her son's bedroom submerged in 6 inches of water. The SD card was undamaged and she was able to be compensated for all her years of hard work.

Whatever method or methods you use to document your loss, the better you do it, the less your chances are of ending up in court. Most of these ideas are simple and easy once you decide to develop the habit.  

Remember, he who has the most paper work usually wins.

It is Everyone's Job - It is important for each of us to take responsibility for our own documentation. The extra time spent properly documenting always saves you time and lots of money. Documenting responsibly and regularly is one of the paths to happiness and peace of mind.

Getting Paid in a Timely Manner

Matt slammed the phone down on the receiver, but not before he roared, "How do you expect me to run my business when you won't pay me for what I've done?" 

It had been 2 weeks since he had been able to talk with the adjuster, 3 months since the final invoices were submitted and 8 months since the flood. The adjuster would not talk with him, the owner was avoiding him and no one seemed to care that they owed him $24,000. 

His secretary poked her head in the door and apologized, "Charles is on line 2 wondering when you're going to pay him for the Martin job and Marla is on line 4 asking if we were going to make payroll this week?"

Getting paid in a timely manner from an adjuster is determined by a multitude of factors, but the greatest single action you can take is to create a positive relationship with every adjuster. I know we can't be BBF (best friends forever) with every adjuster, but there are a few simple steps we can take as estimators/contractors to create a positive professional relationship.
 
Write you estimates using simple, concise and consistent language. Start from the ceiling and work down or from the floor and work up; always keeping a chronological narrative to paint a picture for the adjuster of what happened. The best way to hide unearned line items is to mix-up the order of your presentation. Adjusters know this and are critical of any estimate that doesn't have a natural pattern.

Add an opening statement detailing the date of the loss, who called you out, when you arrived, etc. As I review claims that end up in court, most never have enough detail to tell me what happened. Add additional details with notes. Rather than just listing 15 fan days, expand a note to say, 5 fans x 3 days each. The more detail you give, the easier it is for the adjuster to understand what you are asking for.

Red dots show the height the water wicked up the drywall.

Willingly supply photos, drying logs, and documentation, etc. The adjuster was not there to see the drywall hanging from the ceiling or slosh through 6 inches of water. I always moisture check the room and mark the water levels with red dots, (yellow dots for paneling and darker painted walls), then I take my photos. This way the adjuster has a vivid image in their mind of what really happened. 

It also helps with audits from their supervisors, who may review the claim months after the loss is cleaned up, repaired and paid.

Keep your line items in the smallest units possible. Listing 7 fans each, placed in 10 different rooms, for 4 days each, seems much more reasonable than 280 fan days in your opening line item. Many busy adjusters scan the line item costs on the right side of the page and only read the descriptions of the ones that are unusually large. 

Keeping the line items small doesn't hide costs, because the detailed information is still available, but several smaller items makes your estimate look more defendable than a few very large items. It also gives the adjuster the information they need to justify the money they send you.

Break down the estimate into auditable unit costs. Adjusters love per/sf, per/sy and per/fixture because they can always go back and count the fixtures or re-measure the space. 

Avoid minimum charges, lump sum pricing and labor hours. This includes sub-contractor estimates. 

Most adjusters will happily pay the per/unit costs derived in a respectable estimating program rather than trusting the lump sum invoice of a sub-contractor, even if the total costs are more. The reason, they can defend them better in an audit.

Answer questions before they occur.  If there is a chance someone will ask a question, give them the answer right up front. Every question knocks your credibility down a notch. Keep your integrity intact by being upfront and honest. 

Willingly accept your mistakes and eagerly work for a solution, ESPECIALLY if it costs you money. Fixing mistakes quickly and quietly as soon as you discover them are a mark of a professional. Don't try to hide a blunder or blame someone else once it has become public knowledge. 

We are the estimator or the contractor. We are ultimately responsible for everything that everyone does on every job we have. Step up to the plate and be just as willing to accept the responsibility for a mistake as the credit for a win.

Finally, recognize that adjusters are people just trying their best, to do their job, support their family and in some cases, not get fired. 

• Help make their life easier by writing good estimates.
• Be considerate of their time and ask, "Is this a good time to talk?" 
• Take an interest in their interests and family as appropriate.  

They may have a family member fighting demons in their personal life or life threatening illnesses devouring a loved one. We seldom know. We must give them the benefit of the doubt and assume they are doing the best they can. Help them shine for their boss. 

We like those who make us feel good about ourselves.

Adjusters do too.

Mold Coverage and Insurance Policies

"Not covered, what do you mean?" Sarah whispered to her self, but wanted to scream.  Instead, she just stared at the adjuster like a deer in the headlights.  "I'm sorry," the adjuster murmured, "but your policy doesn't cover mold remediation."

Returning from three weeks of unimaginable fun in the Bahamas, Sarah and her husband Jack discovered that the washing machine water line had broken, spraying water all over the laundry room.  

There was mold growing on the laundry room walls as well as on the ceiling and walls in the bathroom below.  There must be thousands of dollars of work to be done and if isn't covered by their insurance, she had no idea how they would pay for it now.  

What is insurance for, if not for this?  Why isn't this covered?  

She felt cheated, . . . abandoned, . . . violated.

Mold coverage in insurance policies varies greatly from company to company and you must check with your insurance company to see what coverage you have purchased. 

What follows is a general synopsis of how I have seen different insurance companies in the United States deal with mold coverage.  As coverages change from policy to policy as well as from year to year, I will not identify specific companies and their policies, just general guidelines.  You must check your own policy to determine the coverages you actually have.

Example: Homeowner, Rental and Commercial policies, even issued by the same company, usually have differing coverages for damages, repairs and remediation.

General Mold Exclusion  
Every insurance policy has a General Mold Exclusion.  Wording for this exclusion usually follows this vein:

"Fungi", Wet or Dry Rot Or Bacteria meaning the presence, growth, proliferation, spread of any activity or "fungi", wet or dry rot, or bacteria is not covered under this policy.

There is a reason for this exclusion and its wording.  Insurance policies are designed to cover the costs of repairs to your property in the event of a sudden, unforeseen or accidental event.  Damage caused intentionally, by neglect, or abuse, is not covered under most insurance policies.  Insurance covers accidents, not maintenance.

To make this distinction, policies do not pay for any repairs, unless it is a direct result of a sudden or single, event or occurrence, which causes loss or damage.

Therefore, damage that results from failure to properly maintain your home or long term damage that could or should have been fixed, such as a slow leak, but wasn't, are not covered. This would also include fungal, mold or bacterial growth that was a result of the environment; especially in very warm, moist, humid climates, where mold and bacteria proliferate without a water leak occurring.

Example: Mold grows along the baseboards behind the bed or dresser, or in the corners of the room at the ceiling because of condensation resulting from high humidity levels, caused either by the climate or a bathroom shower. Neither clean-up nor repairs would be covered.

While this is a general policy, there may be situations where mold remediation might be covered.

Complete Exclusion
A few companies have a complete exclusion on any mold remediation, regardless of the source.  There are no instances where they will cover any mold remediation. Many policies with exclusions, will cover the costs of the covered repairs, such as drywall, paint and carpet; but they will not pay for any labor or equipment needed to clean or remediation the mold.

Some policies will also not cover the water loss itself, if mold has grown as a result.  Their reasoning - If your home had been properly maintained, the leak would have been discovered and corrected before mold had time to grow.

Example:  You take your family on vacation for 2 weeks.  A water line breaks as you drive down the street, flooding your home the entire time you are gone.  There is significant mold growth in the wet areas of the building.  With this type of coverage, neither the mold, nor the water loss damages would be covered.  You would have to pay for all of the repairs yourself.


Mold Riders
Many insurance companies, after announcing an exclusion on fungal, mold or bacterial remediation, will add back to the policy, a rider covering remediation and clean-up under limited conditions.  These conditions can include:

1. Mold growth that occurs as a result of a covered loss.
2. Existing mold growth that has to be removed/cleaned before damage from a covered loss can occur.

Example: With this policy, if you went on the same trip, as in the previous example, all the repairs, including the mold remediation, would be covered.

If your policy has the rider covering remediation from a covered loss, it still will not cover mold growth resulting from an uncovered loss, such as ground water or culinary water that enters through the foundation from the outside.

Limits of Coverage
Providing you have coverage for mold remediation resulting from a covered loss, the limits of this coverage vary greatly.  Your company could pay any one of the following:

1. From $1000 up to $100,000 toward the remediation of the mold only.  The repairs to the structure would be covered by the water loss portion of the policy up to the value of the policy.   The average cost allowance for the mold remediation by insurance companies is between $5,000 - $10,000 per occurrence.
2. From $1,000 up to $10,000 for the total cost of repairs.  This would include the cost of the mold remediation as well as all of the drywall, paint, carpeting, etc. 

Statistically the national average for the cost of a typical mold remediation, as well as my personal experience, is about $2,000 - $3,000 for the remediation and about the same or less for the repairs. Some jobs are more, some are less, but most people will never encounter a remediation situation of $50,000 - $100,000 where their entire home needs to be demolished. Most often, there is mold growing along the baseboard in a bedroom, or growing behind a kitchen cabinet or bathroom vanity.

It should be evident, that coverage for mold, fungal or bacterial remediation varies drastically from company to company.  It is imperative for home owners to carefully research what their policies cover and what risks they may still be exposed to.  Paying $5 less per month for a policy that does not have mold coverage is no bargain if you later have to pay $1500 to $5,000 for repairs that resulted in mold growth.  But then, maybe you always win at blackjack, too.

It is also important for agents to carefully read and discuss with company adjusters, what the policies they sell actually offer their customers.  There are few things worse that overselling your product to a customer and then watching the resulting anguish and heartache as they try to deal with the situation; while your credibility erodes and your client defects.

Mold coverage in insurance policies varies greatly from company to company and you must check with your insurance company to see what coverage you have purchased.

 

Mold - What is it and How Does It Affect Us?

Anna screamed and dropped the box of canned goods.  The basement bedroom they were using as storage always smelled a little musty, but the bottom of the box and the carpet underneath it, were covered in black mold and the room now reeked, making it hard for her to breath.  

How could this happen?  What did it mean?  Would they all get sick?  Would they have to move to protect her family?

Anna's head was spinning as terrible words boiled up from her subconscious.  She slammed the door and rushed up the stairs to call her husband.

"Black Mold,"
                                            "Toxic Mold,"
                                                                          "Killer Mold"

Mold is actually one of the basic components of our ecosystem.  Its purpose is to eat and digest the organic waste in our world, primarily cellulose, break it down into basic components, so this material can be re-cycled by nature, as humus in the soil.  If we did not have mold, we would find ourselves hopelessly overcome with grasses, dead leaves, branches and trees that would never decompose or go away.

There are over 100,000 different species of mold in the world.  Hundreds of them have the capacity to grow in our homes when conditions are right.  Stachybotrys is the common "black mold" that received unusually harsh treatment in the media.  Because its waste is a toxin, like several other molds, it was labeled "toxic mold".  In an effort to demonize it in law suits, attorneys began to refer to Stachy as "killer mold".  But, mold doesn't kill people and it does not have the same toxicity or danger as chemical weapons.

Molds are living organisms which require 3 basic components to grow.

     1.  Available mold spores
     2.  Water
     3.  And a food source

Food sources for mold are virtually any organic substance, although the varieties that grow indoors on buildings, tend to prefer cellulose products; such as wood, paper, cardboard, etc. If you take any one of these 3 components away, mold can not grow.

Mold also prefers warmer temperatures with little or no light or air movement. Although it can grow in virtually any temperature, even in the Antarctic; we generally find it most abundant in temperatures from 60 to 100 degrees F.  It often grows un-noticed in a home because it tends to be found behind beds, dressers, under boxes on the floor, inside walls, inside cabinets, etc.

Different areas of the country have a greater or lesser propensity for mold growth.  The east coast and deep south that normally have high humidity levels, can have prolific mold growth.  Ample moisture in the air easily condenses on building surfaces providing the needed source of water.  These areas also have more rampant growth in the wild that can easily be transferred into the buildings on air currents, increasing the availability of spores to germinate.  Mold grows exponentially, so the more spores you start with, the faster it multiplies.

Even the dry deserts and high mountain valleys of the western US, have everything needed for mold growth, except an abundance of water.  But if there is a small water leak in a building, mold will readily begin to grow.

There is a common misconception that if you kill the mold, it will no longer be a problem, as with bacteria.  This is not a reality.  Bacteria and viruses have soft cell walls that break apart and decompose very rapidly after they die.

Mold, on the other hand, has a hard cell wall, much like a nut, that does not break down nor decompose without water.  Also, when mold dies, it sporulates, that is, it spews out hundreds of thousand of spores (eggs) that await the opportunity to hatch and grow.  Introducing water will decompose the mold carcasses, but will also germinate the waiting spores, (eggs) and the mold colony will continue to grow and thrive.  Since dead mold provides the same level of irritation that live mold does, it must be removed from the environment to have the remediation successful.

We are all exposed to mold on a regular basis.  It could be an apple or an orange that has been in the fridge for 3 months.  You smell it in flower beds and compost piles.  Maybe there is a small amount of mold growing on your window sills or under the bathroom vanity.  Generally, exposure to mold, has little or no affect on healthy people.  It is only when it becomes concentrated in an enclosed space, as in a bathroom or bedroom, and levels are elevated, that it becomes a concern.

Exposure to mold is usually through inhalation.  When we breathe in the spores,  they irritate linings of our nose, throat and sinuses.  We experience much the same reaction as people with hay fever.  In an effort to extract the spores, our bodies produce symptoms such as; watering eyes, stuffy sinuses, runny noses, sore throats, dry hacking coughs or a general, all over feeling, that we might be getting sick.  The good news is; once we are removed from the source of irritation, the symptoms disappear within a few hours, or at most, a day or two.

Exposure to mold is determined by both quantity and duration.  A person who is exposed to a small amount regularly over a long period of time, may have more detrimental affects than someone exposed to a large amount for a short period.  The irritation that is inflicted on our bodies, generally results in fatigue and/or exhaustion of our immune systems; allowing us to become susceptible to other viruses and bacteria in our environment.

There are 4 groups of people that tend to have greater sensitivity to mold exposure.

1. Those who have upper-respiratory conditions, such as; asthma, hay-fever, chronic pneumonia or bronchitis.  This is because their respiratory system is already weakened from their conditions.
2. Those who have compromised immune systems, such as; chronic fatigue, fibro-myalgia, lupus, Epstein bar, etc.  The irritation from the mold continues to weaken their immune system along with their resistance to disease and illness.
3. The very young, as under age 3-4.  These children have less body mass and they breath air close to the floor where mold spores tend to congregate, giving them higher doses of exposure.
4. The elderly already have tired immune systems because of their age.

Discussions of the effect of mold on people have to take into account so many factors, that a simple blanket statement of how much exposure is safe is impossible.  This article sheds some light on what variables need to be considered in determining the negative effects of mold exposure.

Mold - Where and How Does It Grow?

Aaron signed as he sat his soda can on the table.  True to form, he couldn't finish a drink before it hit his bladder.  Excusing himself from the room, he quietly went to the bathroom.  The door was locked.  "Must be one of their kids," he thought.  Maybe John and Sarah wouldn't mind if he used their master bath, since he had about 30 seconds before the filtered soda would leave his bladder, whether he was in an appropriate spot or not.

As he closed the door and lifted the lid, Aaron noticed the dark staining on the wall and on the baseboard behind the toilet.  "What in the world?" he muttered, and then he recognized that it was mold.  Growing along the wall, it was all the way from the vanity to the tub.  It gave him the chills to know that his best friend lived in such filth.  He quickly finished and gratefully closed the door behind him as he eagerly returned to the party, thinking of any excuse to leave as soon as possible.


Mold requires 3 ingredients to grow; mold spores, moisture and a food source.  Once all three components are in place, mold can begin to grow most any place.  All homes and businesses, regardless of how clean, have mold spores and food sources readily available.  All that is missing is the moisture for growth to start.

While mold can grow in nearly any location in your home, there are a few places where it is much more likely to start.  Regular inspection of these places will help to prevent or reduce mold growth.  Regular means daily if you are paranoid, or once a week to once a month if you are conscientious.

1. Under sink cabinets - Sink cabinets always have water lines.  It is possible for a small or large leak to begin most anytime in either the supply or drain lines.  The older the plumbing, the greater the chance of a leak forming.  They can occur from old gaskets, rusty pipes, or worn-out fixtures, etc.  Once a pin-hole leak starts, the water will erode the hole larger and larger until a drip every day becomes a steady stream.  Because we seldom inspect under the sink, mold can grow undetected for quite some time.
2. Behind and under your fridge - Water and ice lines to the fridge are fragile.  They are usually 1/4" lines of either plastic or copper tubing.  As the fridge is moved in and out for cleaning and inspection, it is easy for the tubing to be crimped or run-over by the wheels, causing a small hole to develop.  Movement and vibration also loosen the fittings, allowing water to leak out.  A slow, steady drip can become an adequate source of moisture for mold growth and remain unnoticed for weeks.
3. Around tubs or showers - In these locations, there is soap scum and bodily oils that collect in corners.  These are food for mold to grow.  If the shower is wiped down or cleaned regularly and the room is properly exhausted, you can minimize mold growth.  Also, over time, the joints and corners of tile and cultured marble surrounds, develop cracks.  These will allow water to seep into the framing under the shower and start mold growth under and between floors, as well as onto ceilings below.
4. Exterior windows and doors - Windows, especially in the colder climates, are frequent haunts for mold.  Dust and water condensing on the glass collect on the sills and provide a perfect environment. This is particularly true when heavy drapes and curtains are over the windows and seldom if ever opened allowing the moisture to build up and condense.
5. Around any other water fixture, i.e.; toilets, water heaters, boilers, swamp coolers, etc. - The older the home, the more likely a leak can begin.  Water heaters have warranties that range from 5-12 years.  They are usually pretty good at not lasting much longer than the warranty.

Here are a few of the less likely places I have seen mold grow.

1. Attics - If you have a leak in the roof, the water will provide the environment for mold to grow.
2. Crawl spaces - Some locations have extremely high ground water.  This water can condense on the framing members and start mold growth.  Venting crawl spaces as per code, as well as installing moisture barriers on the dirt, will greatly reduce the chance of this happening.
3. Between the layers of vinyl flooring - Often the wax ring that seals the toilet to the drain will develop a hole allowing water to seep out along the sub-floor, under the vinyl.  When this water penetrates the layers of paper in the vinyl, mold can grow.  This generally creates a grey to purple stain in the flooring.  It looks much like someone spilled grape juice and it stained.  No matter how hard you scrub or what cleaner you use, the stains will not come off.  The only solution is the vinyl has to be replaced.
4. Sub-flooring under wood or laminate flooring - In the event of a water leak or flood in a room with laminate flooring, the foam or plastic barrier under the laminate will trap moisture next to the sub-flooring material, allowing mold to grow.  Often it takes months to years for this water to dissipate.
5. Exterior walls behind furniture - Mold in these areas usually grow from one of two sources.  First, water intrusions from the outside such as sprinklers or rain water.  Second, high humidity in a room that condenses on the cooler locations behind the furniture near the floor.  Either of these reasons need to be corrected before effective remediation can occur.

Regardless of where or how mold begins to grow, the guiding principles of remediation are:

• Correct the source of water.  If the source is not stopped, mold will begin to grow again within a few weeks of the repairs.
• Remove and dispose of all damaged material.
• Wipe and HEPA vacuum the area until clean.

Mold - How Do You Clean It Up and Keep It From Coming Back?

Alex was in shock.  In his hand he held an estimate from the restoration company to remove the mold growing in the basement bedroom.  He had hoped it would only be a few hundred dollars, not thousands; and they didn't give any guarantee that it wouldn't cost more, once they tore his house apart.  How could this cost so much?  There was quite a bit of mold in the bedroom and bathroom, but not this much.


They also said his insurance might not cover the clean-up or the repairs.  What good was home owner's insurance then? How would he explain this to his wife?  Oh, and she would probably want him to do this himself, too.  Fear gripped Alex as he saw their planned vacation to Disney World, dissolve into a heap of black, smelly mold.

To comprehend the cost of mold remediation, we must first understand the protocol or the method needed to remove and clean it up.  We discussed in another post, a common misconception, that if you apply an antimicrobial, you kill the mold and it will no longer be a problem, such as with bacteria or viruses.  This is not a reality.  Bacteria and viruses have soft cell walls that break apart and decompose very rapidly after they are killed.

Aspergillius Mold Spores

Mold, on the other hand, has a hard cell wall, much like a nut, that does not break down nor decompose without water.  Also, when mold dies, it sporulates, that is, it spews out hundreds of thousand of spores (eggs) that await the opportunity to hatch and grow.  Introducing water will decompose the dead mold carcasses, but will also germinate the waiting spores (eggs) and the mold colony will continue to grow and thrive.  Because mold does not dissolve upon death, they provide the same level of irritation that live mold does and must be removed from the environment to have the remediation successful.  Therefore, the proper protocol for mold remediation is "mold removal".

The schedule of tasks to remove the mold consists of the following order of events:

1. Identify and repair the source of water
2. Contain the affected area with plastic barriers
3. Technicians must wear full protective gear including respirators or masks
4. Install negative air pressure; filtering and exhausting the contaminated air to the outside
5. Remove all contaminated materials; drywall, carpet, framing, etc.
6. Double-bag and dispose of contaminated materials
7. Sand or scrape mold from any remaining structural framing that can not be removed
8. Hepa vacuum all the surfaces inside the containment area, including all plastic barriers and equipment
9. Wash/wipe down all surfaces with a fungicide
10. Hepa vacuum all surfaces inside the containment area, again.
11. If damaged area is still wet, install appropriate fans and/or de-humidification
12. Once the area is dry, hepa vacuum the entire inside of the containment again
13. Industrial Hygienist tests the air quality to determine if the remediation was successful
14. If testing fails, re-clean entire containment area and re-test as needed
15. Remove all barriers, double-bag and dispose.

These are just the basic steps than need to be taken to properly remediate mold.  Often there is more vacuuming or cleaning.  Sometimes testing is not performed, under the assumption that the remediation will be effective.

Addressing the price of such work, contractors also need to provide proper training for their technicians, as well as purchase and maintain fans, de-humidifiers and negative-air machines that cost hundreds to thousands of dollars each.  Most states also require pollution insurance, in addition to regular liability insurance, which costs additional thousands to tens of thousands of dollars a year, depending on the volume of work they do. On top of all this, the contractor still needs to realize a profit to remain in business year after year.

While there are unscrupulous contractors that use mold remediation as a vehicle to separate a customer from their money, most contractors are merely passing on the actual costs of doing business with a sufficient profit margin to allow them to remain in business.

There are many times, with smaller jobs especially, that a home owner has the skills and experience to do the work themselves, with proper instructions, but they still need to follow the protocol outlined above to protect themselves and their families.  A "smaller job" is generally accepted as one containing less that 10 sq ft of moldy surfaces.  If there is more than 10 sq ft, an experienced, professional mold remediation company should be hired to do the work.

As for questions regarding insurance coverage, check out Mold Coverage and Insurance Policies

Mold Myths

Paul hung his head in despair.  They almost had the sale of their home finalized, but now the home inspector's report said that he had found mold around the water heater in the basement.  He was sure the sale would fall through now and they would never be able to sell or rent the house, ever!

This would be disastrous.  They had to move to another state for his new job and they couldn't survive with this albatross around their necks.  What could they do?  Was there any hope?

There are many myths regarding mold that need to be dispelled.  Once mold has started in a home, it is very possible, in all but the most extreme cases, for the mold to be properly remediated, repairs made and for the home to be as good or better than it was before.  The presence of mold will have to be declared in future sales of the property, but proper documentation of the cleaning process will satisfy most buyers.

Below is a list of other myths regarding mold where I have explained the truth.

Myth - Once I have mold in my house, it will continue to infect the entire building.
Mold requires available mold spores, moisture and a food source.  If you have mold start to grow in your home, the source of water is fixed and professional repairs are made to remove the damaged materials, mold will not continue to grow.  Mold is not like a hive of bees that can migrate to other locations at will.  It is a very small organism that can only move on air currents and requires a specific environment to grow.

Myth - Mold will kill my family.
Mold does not kill people or other living entities.  Because it is an irritant, repeated exposure can weaken our immune systems making us more susceptible to other bacteria or virus that may be floating around.  Once we are removed from the contaminated environment, any negative symptoms disappear in a few hours or at most, a few days.

Myth - People catch mold.
People do not catch mold.  Inhalation causes irritation that motivates the body to expel the invaders, creating symptoms such as; watering eyes, stuffy sinuses, runny noses, sore throats, dry hacking coughs or a general, all over feeling, that we might be getting sick.

This is the same reaction produced by those with Hay Fever or Allergies.  The symptoms are merely the body's attempt to remove the invaders.

There is one extreme case where mold spores will grow in your body.  This is with Aspergillius mold spores.  They can grow in our lungs if we are exposed to a large enough quantity and our immune system is sufficiently weaken.  It creates a condition known as Aspergillosis in which the patient is very sick and usually requires large doses of intravenous anti-biotics for weeks to recover.

While this situation is possible to develop, most people are physically unable to remain in a contaminated environment long enough to inhale sufficient quantities of Aspergillus for this condition to start.

Myth - Mold will make you sick. 
People with repeated exposure to mold can become sick, but it is not the mold that makes them sick.  It is the weakening or exhausting of their immune system that leaves them susceptible to other illnesses that are available.

Myth - Mold is Toxic
As explained above, mold is an irritant.  Some species of mold excrete waste known as mico-toxins.  These are also irritating to our bodies, but they are not toxic in the conventional sense of anthrax or carbon-monoxide.  Like mold spores, they do nothing more than stimulate the symptoms in our bodies so they can be expelled.  These symptoms can include; watering eyes, stuffy sinuses, runny noses, sore throats, dry hacking coughs or a general, all over feeling, that we might be getting sick.

Again, once we are removed from the source of irritation, the symptoms usually disappear in a few hours.

What Will My Insurance Company Cover In a Fire?

--Each insurance policy is different.--
You will need to speak with your insurance adjuster to determine 
exactly what your insurance company covers in a fire.

The huge firetruck screeched to a halt. The Fire Chief barked orders and the crew flawlessly connected hoses to the hydrant, snaked them across the yard and water began to pour onto the burning house. Paul marveled at the sight, until the realization that this was his house snapped him back into reality. In less than half an hour it was over. Eighteen years of sweat equity, repairs and pride was reduced to a smoldering, sagging shell. He had insurance, but Paul had no idea who it was with, what was covered or where to start.


The first thing to do to determine what is covered in a fire loss is to speak with your agent.  Your agent will be able to tell you who the insurance company is and how to contact them.  Often, your agent can file your claim for you, sometimes they can't and you will have to do it yourself.


After the fire is over, you may not be able to find your policy or remember who the company was, but you should have your agent's name and phone number recorded in phone, Rolodex or some other place you store your contact's names and phone numbers.  It is always a good practice to have these special numbers in different locations, such as; work, with a friend or another family member's home.  

Fire insurance was actually the first type of insurance available to home owners. You will find that most insurance companies cover all the damages that result from a fire. This includes demolition, cleaning, repairing and rebuilding the structure as well as, replacing damaged furnishings and contents.



Demolition - This is the process of removing the debris from your home.  It can include; framing, drywall, insulation, carpeting as well as damaged furniture and clothing.  Those items that are nailed down are generally referred to as "property" and what is not nailed down, are "contents" or "personal property".  Labor, materials and dumpsters to haul off this debris is usually covered.


Cleaning - Most fires do not completely destroy a home.  Part, if not all of the structure, can be cleaned and repaired.  Cleaning consists of more than just wiping the black off with a wet cloth.  Special grease cutting agents are used and proper protocol, including the direction and way to wipe, are needed to do the job right. 


Cleaning is usually cheaper than replacement, so insurance companies are generally eager to try cleaning first, if it is a viable option, then look at replacement.


Sealing - After the structure is cleaned, there may still be staining and/or odor.  The staining can result from either chemical changes to the exterior finish from the heat or the soot particles can enter the pores of the surface when they open from the intense heat.  Regardless of the reason, the remaining staining or odor will not come out.  Special sealers are applied to these surfaces to trap or encapsulate the staining and odors.  



Repairing/Rebuilding - Once the debris is removed and the remaining structure cleaned and sealed, the repairs can begin.  Your insurance will usually pay to put the structure back exactly as it was before the fire occurred.  This includes the same design and materials that were originally used.  It is possible to change colors, materials or finishes as long as the total cost of repairs is equal to, or less than, what was there before the fire.


That said, an owner has the right to rebuild their home how ever they choose, including a complete remodel or extensive additions.  If this is the case, your insurance company is usually only obligated to pay the cost to put your home back to its pre-loss condition.  Any costs that exceed this would be borne by the owner.

Furnishing and Contents - While most homeowners will look at furniture and clothing as different items, the insurance company considers them all "contents".  Most companies have a "new for old" replacement clause for homeowner policies.  This means that any piece of content that was damaged, as long as it is still serviceable, will be replaced at the current replacement cost with a new item.


Some policies for businesses, rentals, condos, or assigned risks, do not have "new for old" replacement clauses.  It is wise to examine your policy before a loss to determine what your potential risks actually are in this situation.  Many times it is much greater than the policy holder assumed.


You will be required to generate a complete list of all the damaged items, with the replacement cost, and submit it to the adjuster for review and payment.  In the event of a large loss or other extenuating circumstances, the insurance company may pay for the services of a qualified restoration company to help generate this list.


Some policies also have a code upgrade rider available, to pay for additional costs needed to bring the structure up to current building code requirements.


Payment - You will generally be paid in steps during the repair process, upon verification of the loss and costs.  Checks are often issued to you for:

• Emergency Needs - Emergency purchases of new clothing, food or lodging.
• Additional Living Expenses - Payment for all additional expenses incurred as a result of the fire, i.e., lodging, food, etc.
• Contents - Payment for replacement of these damaged items.  
• Construction Draws - For small jobs, this can be the entire amount of repairs, for large jobs, it can be various percentages of the total cost that are paid as benchmarks are reached.
• Final Payment - At the end of the job, items that were not anticipated in the beginning or already paid, are examined and reviewed so that final payment can be given to you. 

Again, every insurance company and policy are different.  

You will need to discuss with your agent or adjuster
to determine exactly what is covered by a fire and
how much money is allowed for the various categories.

The Science of Drying a Structure

 

Mary was so embarrassed. She was sure that everything was dry from her "little flood," but looking at the red markers on the wall, she realized she was very wrong. The contractor had used some kind of meter and showed her where the walls were still wet. But how could the drywall be wet a foot up when the wall didn't feel wet or cold? And how would they be able to remove the water without tearing the wall apart?

For decades, the restoration industry used historical evidence in drying a structure. Basically, if it worked once, we would use it again. Everyone knew that moving air dried clothes and when the air was heated, it dried them even faster. No one really knew exactly why, but that didn't matter as long as it worked. So contractors put fans in houses for three days and said,"It is dry."

Today, using sensitive measuring devices, the industry has applied the laws of physics and chemistry to drying. Now, we not only know how the drying process works, we can predict with a great degree of accuracy, how long it will take and which technique will work best for a given situation.

There are three basic principles needed to dry a structure. Leave one out and the drying is delayed; leave two out, and drying grinds to a halt.

The first principle is heat - The more heat there is, the more energy is transferred to the water molecules and the more primed they are to move from one area to another. In most situations, the optimum temperature for drying a structure is between 90-105 degrees Fahrenheit. If it is much hotter, damage to the home can result. If it is too much cooler, the molecules will not be excited enough to move. Often, supplemental heat will need to be added to raise the temperature to the desired level.

The second principle is pressure - We control the direction of the water movement with air or atmospheric pressure and vapor pressure. The Bernoulli principle of physics explains that the faster a fluid is moving, the lower the pressures are inside the fluid. Air is a fluid, therefore, the faster it moves, the lower the pressure in the air. When the pressure of the ambient air in the room is less than the vapor pressure of the wet carpet, pad or drywall, the water molecules move from higher pressure to lower pressure or from the wet materials into the air. This migration is known as evaporation. The greater the pressure differential, the faster evaporation will occur.

The third principle is evacuation - Once the first two principles are successfully implemented, the air will quickly become saturated with water and evaporation will cease. Water molecules need to be evacuated from the room before evaporation can continue. In many situations, opening windows and doors to the outside will allow for the water to move out of the structure, lowering the vapor pressure in the room so evaporation can resume. This is especially effective on warm summer days. But when the temperature drops 30 degrees at night, high levels of humidity exist out of doors or security issues are present, other means of evacuation need to be employed. The most common option is a refrigerant dehumidifier.

The refrigerant dehumidifier cools the moist air to the dew point, forcing the water molecules to condense and fall out of the air. This water is collected in a holding tank and purged into a sink or floor drain when the tank is full. As the water is removed from the air, the pressure in the air is reduced allowing for more water to move from the wet materials into the air. Most refrigerant dehumidifiers work best in the 90-105 degree range.

There are several variations on these principles that can increase success in drying. Sometimes, hot, dry air is blown in to the building to create high pressure inside the room. This forces the air to leave through cracks and openings in the exterior, taking moisture with it. Other times hot, dry air will be pumped in to pressurize the walls while blowing fans lower the pressure of the room.

The best protocol to use will be determined by considering the following:

• Amount of water present
• Security concerns
• Weather
• Season of the year
• Indoor and outdoor temperatures
• Nature of the wet materials
• Construction of the building

Using proper tools, including; moisture meters, thermal hygrometers and thermal imaging cameras, restoration contractors can dry most structures where the extent of damage does not require replacement.

What Do You Do After a Fire

         

1. Contact your insurance company. You need to report the fire, and your insurance company will give you valuable information regarding your coverage, including where to stay if your home is un-inhabitable. Your insurance company will usually dispatch an adjuster to evaluate the damage. Sometimes it will be that day, but often it is the next business day after the claim was reported.

2. Contact a reputable restoration company. You will need to choose a restoration contractor (such as Utah Flood and Fire) you are comfortable with. Your insurance company may recommend contractors in your area, but the final decision is yours alone. Your insurance company will pay the reasonable repair costs for most reputable companies. A restoration company will be able to help with the following items.

3. Secure the premises. Often in a fire, the firemen need to break doors or windows to enter the house or evacuate the smoke as quickly as possible. The fire may also have burned holes in the walls or roof. These need to be boarded up and/or covered as protection from weather and theft.

4. Restore the power. The power is usually shut off to the house as a precaution. The flames may have burned and exposed live wires that could short and start another fire. A qualified electrician is needed to separate the damaged circuits and restore power to the house. The power company often needs to inspect the building before they will allow the power to be restored.

5. Turn on the water. In major fires, the water is also shut off by the fire department. This is to prevent additional water damage from pipes that may have been damaged. This will need to be checked and turned back on before the cleaning process can proceed.

6. Restore the gas. The gas is also shut off as a safety precaution. A plumber is needed to check the gas connection and work with the gas company to restore the service.



Beautiful tri-fold copies of this article are available for distribution by insurance agents, adjusters, fire and police departments. Contact Utah Flood and Fire Network for more information